Real vs "tourist" Buddhist sanctuary

As we wandered outside of Borobudur we came to a couple of small Candi's (temples) and next to one was a Buddhist monastery with the front grounds largely open to the public.

Closed gates but free admission (Hindu temples all had a nominal admission)

 

Mix of tranquil pond, stupa (tall pillar - not sure what the significance of Stupa's are but common throughout South Asia)  -I guess kind of like the large boulder the Israelites used to mark the presence of God.

The only other tourists were some three European (who's native language was not English) strolling on the pathway lined with upside down lotus flowers.

I really like these little guys- I need to find some lightweight ones.

I need to learn more about the true meaning of they being - Makara - hybrid animals - usually a mammal and fish.

More surprises - encircling the Olympic torch

Tranquil scene of a bird/person - or maybe an angel

 




Yes, I am a sucker for stained glass - that Catholic upbringing I guess.

But these aren't stainglass I would see in small town USA (or any Catholic church)

Interesting sculpture at many level:
- Is the sculpture broken or made that way?
- Is the woman prostrating herself or is the foot on her hair?
- What is the standing woman's role?

Buddha was male? Correct - I realize that is a culturally insensitive question and male and females dress differently but maybe Buddha has transcended gender (which actually would make sense)

An interesting mix of Buddha's - in this case the Buddha on a Cobra

The rarely seen - Starving Buddha - I always wondered why Buddha is so hat and happy since my understanding is that he left his palace and starved himself to seeing the path to Nirvana (God)

 
 I've seen multiple reclining Buddha's but never a  sleeping Buddha's especially one covered in a golden blanket ........

I made sure Jessica whispered so we didn't wake him

Different angle on the footprint in front of napping Buddha








 

Nice views of chandelier in the room

 




More traditional reclining Buddha

The signs said that this Buddhist monastery was a gift from Japanese Buddhist (missionaries aren't just Christian)

 

The gongs I love so much - but where is the striker!!!!!

 

 

My view of cool photography - shot through the glass in one of the locked building with an overlay reflection of the trees outside - subtle enough (like me) you aren't sure if the tree pattern is inside or outside (at least that is my story)

Nice cultural mix (by current standards) - Indian Elephant and Chinese Buddha

Impressive Stupa - but are you sure it isn't a phallic symbol?

Appropriate this close to Borobudur - Buddha on the outside of upside down bell (surrounded by water)

The Buddhist guards - if I could grow a mustache I could be one

Another first for a Buddhist temple (or anywhere else for that matter) - any ideas?  Seems somewhat extraterrestrial - but lack a power source (at least a physics explainable one)

Definitely worth a visit - we say a monk reading - he ignored us (amazing) and went inside the private part of the compound.  I'm sure it was because he heard me asking Jessica to ask him for the gong striker .........

Indonesian "Greeks"

When I was in Greece a few years ago - I was dazzled by what the Greeks had accomplished 4,000 years ago and the civilization debt we all owe those Greeks.  The flip side is it's all been downhill ever since.  I had the same feeling visiting the Sultan's palace in Indonesia.  The accomplishments (temples of Borobudur and Pramabaram) from the 9th century - WOW - but since then .........

See for yourself

Beast and Beauty picture.  Proof from the start - yes we did visit.

This is the face of famous evil person from Indian/Hindu play (see Ballet post) - used extensively - story is from pre-AD time frame and came to Indonesia around 8-9th century AD.

Jessica is the one without the protruding teeth

Missed the Sunday musical performance (visited on a Monday) - I would have paid to have a chance to play.

Others probably would have paid more for me not to be allowed.

Assorted "sultan" objects.  Our guide was worshipful of the sultan and made it sound like his was a very powerful royal line and he and his predecessors we key rulers in pre-colonial, colonial and Independence times.

Another guide (of the Royal baths) explained that there were multiple sultans and this one was the sultan not of Java but of Yogjakarta (a large city, but .....)

 


All the guides worked for free (2 days per week).  Hereditary position for several generation that included a house (deed was linked to someone in the family working for the sultan) and pension.  So very highly sought after roles.

People have been the morning (as opposed to afternoon) tea maker for the sultan for multiple generations - their mother is so proud

Culture is that the baby (in this case the Sultan's child) would be put into a cage with a variety of toys and the one the child picked would be his (not sure if girls had the same "choices") training and career.  Reminds me of the joke about an American Indian who was unhappy with his name (since a name was given based on the first thing the child's father saw walking out of the teepee) related to two dogs procreating.

Even more limiting than the European/Asian approach of career/fate determined by exams taken by 10-12 years olds.

Assorted objects in the courtyard of the Sultan.  An interesting mix from all cultures - Sultan balancing his subjects.  As next pictures demonstrate often "fusion" between cultures.

This is from Chinese culture. 

Gift from the Dutch in late 1800s.  I was surprised how reverently the guide talked about everything Europeans and gifts.

She tried to make it sound like because the Sultan was a world player - seems more like tokens given to an anklebiter.

Reception center - the pillars have designs from Hindu, Buddhist and Islam.  The Sultan shows respect for all three religions/cultures - seems like wise statesmanship.

Indonesia is officially an Islamic country but much more open to other religions than our Malaysian experience

Along with ornate ceiling

 Another reception/dance hall with mixed cultural symbols. 

 Full combo of cultural combinations!

How the Sultan used to travel (carried around by 8-10 people).  I always wonder why would you want to be carried when you could put wheels on this cart and likely go faster.  Maybe it has to due with the quality (or lack of) the roads.

Notice the VII - signifies the 7th Sultan - more later on signifying lineage order.

Still don't understand the lack of wheels but if I'm going to be carried -

       I like the "bow" of this carriage much better than the generic red. 

European objects of art gifts.  Ok for my face to be on the teapot and cups but a serving platter? 

I guess if mirrors are a luxury you need constant reminders of what you look like.

How do I (or more importantly others) know my order in the Sultan lineage?  

By the number of feathers on my crest!  So this for the 8th Sultan.

Very creative in how many places this symbol can be placed. 
 

 
 


I never got a clear answer on what the new Sultan (as he moved from son of the Sultan) did with all the emblems of the previous Sultan.

Did they add a feather or start over?

Probably some great garage sales on old Sultan "stuff"

But the lasting impression I have of the Sultan of Yogjakarta is that they should be getting royalties from Star Trek - this must be where Gene Roddenberry got his ideas for Vulcan's ears.  This is not a real ear but rather an ear 'accessory" that symbolizes wisdom.

I'd not survive long in court as the stern face combined with the ears make me laugh.

 
Hard to see from this picture but this is how the "prince" would be dressed before his coronation.  Reminds me of Minnie Mouse preparing for a wrestling match.

Whatever works in your culture.

Some of the designer clothes displayed on catwalks in the fashion capitols of US and Europe are even goofier and less practical.

I love this picture - the royal line with ears ready to give flight!  The founders of the dynasty were smart enough to not need "wisdom" ears.  Usually the founders of anything are the sharpest tools.

Notice how the founder is much less "European" than the rest of the line .......  Less need for medals as well.

Puppet stained glass - I'm not a puppet fan but cool

Obviously I don't understand or appreciate some of the recent history of the Yogjakarta Sultan dynasty but I really like Indonesia and plan on spending plenty of time there over the next couple of years.

Malaysian - out "friendly" Texans

Janet and I had "cultural orientation" from a nice guy (Canadian via way of NYC) subcontracted to Berlitz.  A potential job for me if I decide not to go back to the US.   After three months, not much new but real helpful were some suggestions about different practical approaches to handle some cultural traits we had observed.  For example - as a manager I am often providing ideas/direction and then struggling to get feedback - I am often wrong on the tactics but the end goal is correct (but you need both).  The recommendation is to leave the room and let people discuss in groups without the "boss" there and then come back and ask for group feedback.  I have modified the approach somewhat to give explicit direction on the group formation, the topics, etc - so the key feedback is addressed.  Very helpful.

The major new concept was understanding the three circles of "trust"

1. Inner circle - family - all is forgiven - family against the world
2. Trusted circle - friends - clear hierarchy, everyone knows and is comfortable with their place - as long as you stay in place - you can stay in this circle
3. Other - people who aren't clearly identified in the hierarchy - anything can be done to them - they are invisible

The first two circles seem fairly common (circle 2 definition varies by culture) - family and friends.  The big difference is circle 3.  In the US, circle 3 would be split into two:
     3a. Unknown/potential circle 2 - so effort to be polite (holding doors, have a nice day, smiling, etc)
     3b. Other - people you have prejudices against, enemies, etc - usually smallest circle

So the behavour that drives me (and other westerners crazy) makes some sense

• Hitting the close elevator doors (as opposed to holding them open) when we are walking towards the elevator (happens more to Janet being female)
• Not holding doors
• Not smiling at strangers - acting surprised when I smile (but my charm wins and everyone smiles back)
• Crowding the entrance of door (train, elevator, etc) so people struggle to get out before they can get in
• Standing in public spaces without awareness of anyone else (ends of aisles in grocery stores, bottom or top of elevators, etc)
• Pulling out in traffic, double parking, etc
• Customer indifference with a smile

It also explains the obsession with "branded" goods.  Malaysia has a much higher % of luxury stores than average income can support.  high % of luxury cars, etc.  It signals to everyone that rather than being in the Other category you have high status. Makes sense - especially when you have the mix of races.  As a Westerner (male with grey hair - it's great Asian appreciate the wisdom of age!) - I have high status (or at least that is what I tell myself) so I enjoy challenging the stereotypes. 

• Walk around the mall dressed like I am a backpacker on Malaysia 30 cents/day tour
• Walk up/down the hill with groceries rather than taxi or car
• Continuing to wear my Hawaiian shirts - I've been surprised at how many questioning comments

It has also given me a business idea - how to duplicate www.gilt.com in Malaysia.  Another post coming on the interesting differences on "internet" in Asia vs West.

But given the chance, I have found Malaysians' friendlier than Texans.  As Texans are the friendliest Americans - this is a huge compliment.

• Jess first international flight without dad was coming to KL from Houston.  Huge thunderstorm leaving the US, so the connecting flight Singapore to KL was missed - more drama and she didn't make either of the next two flights and mobiles weren't connecting so parental panic (even dad - usually that is mom's sole responsibility).
• While we were waiting for the third flight - "honest she really is on flight" were we assured after starting to lose face by going ballistic - a Malaysian airline pilot came over and chatted us up.  He had heard our discussions with the counter folks and had done some checking.  
• Eventually all the passengers came out and no Jessica - panic.  So he offers to walk back into baggage and find her.  We gave a description - 5'5" thin, athletic and pale (Janet questioned me on the pale comment).  15 minutes later the two of them wandered out.  He was able to help her with the luggage (that had made the original flight???) and the baggage folks were struggling to find it.
• Apparently he had walked up to her and said"Jessica?" she was surprised but when he said she had some worried parents - it all made sense.  His comment to her was " you don't look that pale - my sister (he was European/Chinese) is paler"
• Jess said people we amazingly helpful - letting her use their mobile phone to try and call - making sure she got the correct gate, etc - she is staying connect to some of them on Facebook.
• Jess, Janet and I were in Penang - looking like lost tourists at the end of a long day (we were) with a malfunctioning GPS trying to find a temple.  A Chinese lady stopped us on the street and tried to give us directions but then gave up and said "come on get in my car and I'll drive you"
•  One of my team in Houston is Chinese-Malaysian and had Janet and I over to her house before we left for KL to give us a feel for Malaysia - very nice and really made a difference for Janet.  Her family (parents and sister/brother-in-law) took us to dinner and then their club for drinks.  It was like we were family.  Just a great time and the food is amazing - I need to learn how to order like a Malaysian - when I eat out with Malaysian the food is 10x better than when I order

<pictures to be added>

Lesson for me is that while Texans probably treat the general "others" more friendly than Malaysians.  Being in the Malaysian Friends trust circle focus is like Texans treat family.  Pluses and minus on both - I am going to try and adopt both as my approach.  My message on culture (after 3 months of expertise) is picking the best of each culture is better than either by itself.

It's a different style - and while not always, there are plenty of times that Malaysians are friendlier than Texans.